General Molding & Trim Information (4)

Overlap Reducer Molding for Laminate Floor Transitions

Floating floors can utilize a surface terminator called a reducer. It will reduce the height of the floor from the height of the floating floor to the subfloor level. If you have just half covered room with a floating floor or the floor stops in a doorway are examples where you can use Overlap Reducer molding to finish the job. Proper installation requires a gap which can allow for the required expansion of the floating floor. Overlap reducers have a small protruding piece which overlaps the floating floor and hides the expansion gap, leaving room for free movement of the floating floor.

To install a Overlap Reducer-Molding, a space needs to be left at the edge the floor hard surface. This molding design relies on a metal track that is nailed or screwed to the floor between the two hard surfaces. The molding is then snapped into place. This method is glueless and makes installing a floating floor quicker since there is no glue drying time. Check the installation guidelines of the manufacture for full details.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

End Cap Molding for Laminate Floor Transitions

Square Nose Reducers are very similar to Thresholds but have a more squared off edge. Typically used with floating floor, a Square Nose is perfect for butting hard surface floors up against vertical obstacles, where a Quarter Round or Wall Base would be difficult to use to cover an expansion gap like a brick wall, fireplace, sliding glass door, entryway doors. The Square Nose Reducer overlaps the hardwood or laminate floor, hiding the expansion gap with the overlapped portion of the molding.

Installation of a Square Nose Reducer would involve using construction adhesive to glue the transition piece to the subfloor and/or face nailing the piece to the subfloor using 8 penny finish nails.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Flush Stair Nose Molding for Wood or Laminate Floors

With flush stair nose molding the tongue and groove configuration is used to secure the nose to the floor overlay and the stair underlayment. This offers a smooth surface transition between the stair nose and the floor. In ideal situations the wood color is identical for a appealing look and feel. It is dependent on the manufacturer to provide proper complementary stair nose molding. If customized flush molding cannot be found then the installation might need to use overlap molding described below.

Expansion gap considerations are less important for stair tread placement because the amount of material is small and the expansion slight. Still a mall gap should be allowed where the tread meets the riser. This gap would then be covered by the riser overlay. Overlap stair nose molding can be used in combination with flush molding to accommodate transaction at the top of the stairs, where it would be transitioning from a differing floating floor down to the first step.

Flush stair nose pieces are installed by construction adhesive the flush stair nose to the subfloor using. In addition, using two 8 penny face nails, nail down the flush stair nose approximately 3 inches. in from each end as well as in the center of the flush stair nose piece. If the stairs are extra long, make sure to face nail two 8 penny finish nails at approximately every 20 inches of the molding.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Overlap Stair Nose Molding for Wood or Laminate Floors

Floating applications require a different kind of Stair Nose: one which can allow for the required expansion gap for floating hardwood or laminates. Overlap Stair Noses have a small protruding piece which overlaps the floating floor and hides the expansion gap, leaving room for free movement of the floating floor. As you can’t float floor boards on individual stairs, the boards need to be attached to the individual stair surface. Overlap Stair Nose pieces are typically only used at the top of the staircase, where it would be transitioning from a floating floor down to the first step.

Overlap Stair Nose pieces are installed a lot like Flush Stair Nose pieces. Glue the Overlap Stair Nose to the subfloor using construction adhesive, making sure to leave enough room for the required expansion gap. In addition, using two 8 penny face nails, nail down the Overlap Stair Nose approximately 3 inches in from each end as well as in the center of the Overlap Stair Nose piece.

If the stairs are extra long, make sure to face nail two 8 penny finish nails at approximately every 20 inches. of the molding. It’s important, with Overlap Stair Nose pieces, that you remember to attach the molding to the subfloor and not to the floating floor you’re overlapping.

Overlap Reducer Molding Wood Floor Transitions

While installing a floating floor, it’s especially important to leave expansion gaps where the new flooring meets up with walls or with a second floor. Overlap Reducers were created for the purpose of transitioning smoothly from this floating floor to a second floor like vinyl, tile or low pile carpet. Much like a Flush Reducer, an Overlap Reducer gradually slopes down to meet the second floor, but instead of locking in flush with the hardwood, an Overlap Reducer has a small protruding piece which will overlap the floating hardwood or laminate flooring. The purpose of this overlap portion of the transition piece is to hide the expansion gap left, allowing the floating floor to move without restriction.

To install an Overlap Reducer, simply glue down to the subfloor using construction adhesive and/or you can face nail into the subfloor using 8 penny finish nails. Do not adhere the Overlap Reducer to the actual hardwood or laminate flooring at all. The overlap part of this transition piece is meant to simply rest on the floating floor.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Threshold Molding Wood Floor Transitions

Threshold Molding is used in situations where a hardwood or laminate floor is meeting up with a second floor of a different height. Instead of a gradual slope, like a Reducer, a Threshold has a rounded off square edge appearance. Thresholds are perfect when butting a hard surface floor up to a high pile carpet and are also often used when hardwood or laminate floors are meeting up with a sliding glass door track. A Threshold will overlap the hardwood or laminate floor and create a defined transition to this second surface. Threshold molding is sometimes referred to as Baby Threshold.

To install a Threshold, simply glue down to the subfloor using construction adhesive and/or you can face nail to the subfloor using 8 penny finish nails. It’s important to note that if you’re using a Threshold with a 3/4 inch. thick solid hardwood floor, the bottom of the molding may rest at approximately 1/4 inch. above the subfloor. The Threshold can still be used. You would just need to use a heavier bead of construction adhesive or use a filler piece on the subfloor under the bottom of the molding to offer more support to the Threshold.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

End Cap Molding Wood Floor Transitions

Square Nose Reducers are very similar to Thresholds but have a more squared off edge. Typically used with floating floor, a Square Nose is perfect for butting hard surface floors up against vertical obstacles, where a Quarter Round or Wall Base would be difficult to use to cover an expansion gap like a brick wall, fireplace, sliding glass door, entryway doors. The Square Nose Reducer overlaps the hardwood or laminate floor, hiding the expansion gap with the overlapped portion of the molding.

Installation of a Square Nose Reducer would involve using construction adhesive to glue the transition piece to the subfloor and/or face nailing the piece to the subfloor using 8 penny finish nails.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Flush Reducer Molding for Laminate Floor Transitions

Floating floors that need a surface terminator that function as a fixed anchor too can used a Flush Reducer molding (if available). These are less common in the marketplace. The tongue and grove would fit into the reducer and the reducer would be fasten to the floor. Any expansion in the floor would be away from the molding since there is no “gap” in the molding transition. It has the benefit of a smooth floor transition, versus an overlap reducer which protrudes above the floating floor.

This molding will reduce the height of the floor from the height of the floating floor to the subfloor level. If you have just half covered room with a floating floor or the floor stops in a doorway for example you can use Flush Reducer molding to finish the job. Flush reducers reducers do not accommodate expansion of the floating floor and are therefore not widely used for installations. Availability is subject to manufacturer.

To install a Flush Reducer molding, an anchor track is required. This molding design relies on a metal track that is nailed or screwed to the floor between. The molding is then snapped into place. This method is glueless and makes installing a floating floor quicker since there is no glue drying time. The floating floor can then be click locked into the molding. Check the installation guidelines of the manufacture for full details.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

T–Molding Wood / Wood Floor Transitions

T-Moldings are appropriately named as the profile resembles a capital T. The T-Molding is used in situations where you’re transitioning from one hard surface to a second hard surface. The top part of the T-Molding overlaps both hard surfaces. It’s incredibly important that these two hard surfaces are the same height, as, if one side doesn’t have the appropriate support, that side of the molding will start to crack once it’s being stepped on. The same reasoning goes for why the T-Molding can not be used to transition to carpet, there’s just not enough support.

If hardwood flooring is being floated across a few rooms, it’s always recommended to use T-Moldings in doorways. In larger areas, an expansion joint is also recommended if floating hardwood flooring layout is going to exceed 30 feet in any particular room.

To install a T-Molding, a space needs to be left between the two hard surfaces. The transition piece is then glued down where it meets the subfloor using construction adhesive. It’s recommended to place a heavy object on the newly glued T-Molding overnight, in order to ensure a tight bond. In addition to being glued down, you can also choose to face nail the T-Molding (in the middle of the T-Molding) to the subfloor using 8 penny finish nails. It might be helpful to drill a pilot hole slightly smaller that the nail.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

T–Molding Wood / Laminate Floor Transitions

The T-Molding top overlaps both hard surfaces, in this case, a wood floor and a laminate floor. The top of the mold will conceal the gap required to let a the two floors expand. It must be stress the two hard surfaces should be the same height. This T-molding uses an anchor channel to transfer traffic weight loads. This may offer some considerations between uneven floors, but care should be taken because if one side doesn’t have the appropriate support because that the ridge of the T-molding may start to crack once it’s being stepped on.

If hardwood flooring is being floated across a few rooms, it’s always recommended to use T-Moldings in doorways. In larger areas, an expansion joint is also recommended if floating hardwood flooring layout is going to exceed 30 feet in any particular room.

To install a T-Molding, a space needs to be left between the two hard surfaces. This transition design relies on a metal track that is nailed or screwed to the floor between the two hard surfaces. The T-molding is then snapped into place. This method is glueless and makes installing a floating floor quicker since there is no glue drying time.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

T–Molding Laminate / Laminate Transitions

The top part of the T-Molding overlaps both hard surfaces, in this case, a laminate floor and a laminate floor. The top of the mold will conceal the gap required to let a the two floors expand. It must be stressed the two hard surfaces should be the same height. This T-molding uses an anchor channel to transfer traffic weight loads and hold the trim in place.

If hardwood flooring is being floated across a few rooms, it’s always recommended to use T-Moldings in doorways. In larger areas, an expansion joint is also recommended if the floating flooring layout is going to exceed 30 feet in any particular room.

To install a T-Molding, a space needs to be left between the two hard surfaces. This transition design relies on a metal track that is nailed or screwed to the floor between the two hard surfaces. The T-molding is then snapped into place. This method is glue-less and makes installing a floating floor quicker since there is no glue drying time.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Flush Reducer Molding Wood Floor Transitions

When you’re installing a hardwood floor using a nail, staple or glue-down installation, a Flush Reducer can be used to smoothly transition the new hardwood floor down to a second flooring type, such as vinyl, ceramic tile or low pile carpet.

Flush Reducers can be glued to the subfloor with construction adhesive and/or face nailed using 8 penny finish nails. A Flush Reducer should only be used with flooring that is secured to the subfloor (nailed, stapled or glued down) and not with a hardwood floor or laminate floor that is being floated. This is because a floating floor needs room to move and a Flush Reducer would not allow for the necessary expansion gap.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the best results.

Understanding which molding or transition pieces are required to complete a flooring project can be confusing. We hope to clear this up on this page. Some molding is required to cover required gaps in an installation and some is just for cosmetic purposes. Floors expand and contract with the environmental temperature. Proper installation requires placement of gaps in the floor at the edges and between rooms to accommodate expansions. Some of the modeling below elegantly covers these gaps.

General Molding & Trim Information

Wood moldings differ from laminate moldings. And to make things more complicated modeling differ among manufacturers. Moldings and transition pieces offered by manufacturers are often designed to match the color of a specific floor that they offer. It’s important to understand that moldings may not match floors exactly because wood is a natural product, and one piece can take a stain a little differently than another. Typically molding lengths are 78 inches but can be up to 96 inches. This variation can differ from brand to brand in the industry. Laminate trim is typically made from of synthetic plasticized composite. The matching color and visual design is laminated onto the surface.

The following descriptions offer a basic guideline for the most popular molding and transition types. Dimensions and profiles may differ slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, and the general descriptions below are meant only for general guidance. Call, chat or send and email to us if you have specific questions.

Shipping Molding 

Shipping molding is done in a big long cardboard tube packaging. It is efficient for shipping a bundle of moldings, however returning single sticks that are leftover from a project can be costly and not worthwhile. The rule of thumb is to measure twice order once, keep some extra for future repairs and modifications.

Expansion Gaps

Almost all molding is designed to cover up expansion gaps in flooring in a durable and functionally cosmetic way. Expansion gaps are spaces left around the perimeter of rooms i.e. walls, against fixed objects such as columns, and other flooring transitions. The composition of the solid dictates the amount of expansion that will be observed. For example, stone floors may expand less than wood.

Wood flooring is an organic (once living) material that reacts to moisture and temperature changes in the environment. The individual fiber cells in the hardwood will take on or absorb moisture when the relative humidity is high, or when exposed to water. Expansion takes place, and the hardwood elongates across the grain or width of the plank. Conversely, when air moisture levels decrease, moisture content evaporates, shrinkage occurs.

You will need to let a floor acclimate to a room 48 hours prior to installing it so that the expansion/contraction is in sync with the gap allowances you build into the installation to ensure that is is reflective of the actual floor surface area at room temperature.

Wall Base Molding for Floor Wall Transitions

Another traditional molding used to cover expansion gaps is a Wall Base or commonly called baseboard. Wall Base heights differ from manufacturer to manufacturer but typically can range anywhere from 2 inch to 5 inch tall. Wall Bases can be plain and generic or very decorative and, like the Quarter Round, homeowners usually prefer these moldings to be painted or stained the same color as the rest of the trim in the room.

Wall Baseboards are fastened using 8 penny finish nails, nailing approximately every 16 inch and can be used with a Quarter Round complement or without.

Quarter Round Molding for Floor Wall Transitions

One of the most common types of molding is called the Quarter Round. Quarter Rounds are typically 3/4 x 3/4 inch and are used to cover the necessary expansion gap between a hard surface floor and a wall. Along the same line as Quarter Rounds, some manufacturers offer a molding called a Shoe Base. Shoe Bases are typically a little thinner or a little shorter, but work in the same manner as a Quarter Round. Manufacturers offer Quarter Round to match (as close as possible) the color of their specific floor, however it is common to see Quarter Rounds painted or stained the same color as the rest of the trim in the room.

Installation of Quarter Round is very simple and is something anyone can do. Simply nail the Quarter Round into the baseboard or the wall using 6 penny finish nails approximately every 10 inch. When preparing a room for a new installation, it is necessary to remove existing Quarter Round prior to installing the new flooring. Quarter Round can be used alone, or it can be used in conjunction with a Wall Base is baseboard.

Now there are many families will be in the interior design of stairs, so now the design and practice of stairs are more concerned about the problem, and size is also an indispensable decoration factor in the process of paving is also very cautious, otherwise, it will be very easy to appear disorder, let’s talk about the stair treads paving method

Stair treads

First of all, it needs to be explained that the normal stair steps are pasted from top to bottom to facilitate the construction (wooden floor construction method is ignored, only ceramic floor or stone step is taken as an example). When the stairs in use are to be pasted with ceramic tiles or stone steps, the construction needs to be divided into two parts and two times to ensure the normal passage!

The basic steps are as follows (take the concrete structure stair foundation as an example)

Cleaning and removing obstacles

Setting out and positioning

Application of water and slurry (plain cement mortar)

Side plate (vertical plate)

Semi-dry mortar leveling

Plain cement mortar pasteboard

Edge mortar compaction

Remove the excess mortar for the next step of the table

Clean and wipe to finish the finish

Repeat the above steps and pastedown continuously

After 36 hours, water shall be applied for curing once

Finally, use the joint sealer for pointing and cleaning.

stair treads dimension

Molding and trim is the adornment line that is set in corners at the floor of the wall that are easy to be polluted by broom, mop or are easy to be kicked by the foot. It commonly uses the material of ceramic tile, stone material, PVC, wood plank and so on to stick , also someone will use cement to wipe directly.

1, Molding and trim can be used to protect the wall, when we mop the floor, the moisture content is relatively large, if without molding and trim, to mop the floor will inevitably dirty wall, this is no doubt.

2, Adults sometimes accidentally kick to the wall , children may also kick the wall as a fun, after the installation of molding and trim it is not easy to be kicked dirty, It’s easier to manage, though.

3, It plays the role of balancing visual effects, molding and door cover, window cover can form a unified vision, making use of linear feeling, and the mutually echo of the materials and colors, can decorate the beauty of the bedroom greatly.

4, Molding can also make up for some of the defects of the wall caused in the process of decoration.

5, It not only can cover the expansion joint between the floor material and metope but also can protect the wall root out of dirty damage, so it is necessary for all the room except the kitchen to install the moldings.

The molding can be divided into the following categories by materials: ceramic molding, glass molding, stone molding, wood molding, PVC molding, aluminum alloy molding, ps polymer molding.

1.Wood molding include hardwood and fiber board type. Hardwood is less prefered for its high price. For both, however, the change of shape should be paid attention to due to temperature and moisture content change.

2: PVC molding is a comparatively cheap replacement to wood skirting. It uses film surface to imitate the wood grain and paint color of real wood. The disadvantage is the film may get off easily and people can tell the unnatural effect easily.

3: Stainless steel molding is costful in price and complicated in installation. But it’s much more durable than any other counterpart and requires little maintenance job. It’s suitable for projects full of modern style.

4: Ceramic or stone molding is quite durable, but might only be applied in rooms where walls are covered with the same material to achieve an unanimous effect.Three, the installation of the moldings:

 

The moldings of the bedroom is in the lowest part of the wall, from the ground upward 12-15 centimeters, it is one part of the metope adornment, so is the dividing line between the wall and ground, Because close to the ground, easy to be destroyed, also easy to get dirty, the requirements of the ground line must be strong and easy to scrub.

The molding is the outspread of the ground to the wall, the materials that use accordingly should be consistent with the surface of the ground. For instance, some customers use the ceramic tile that is easy to clean, the color must be consistent or close to, if contrast is too big, it can give people the uncomfortable feeling on the vision.

The grain of wood or PVC floor is natural and clean and without pollution, matching easily with other decorations, the moldings with same materia can make a bedroom more sweet and downy. If what spread inside the bedroom is carpet, it is also suitable to use wood or PVC moldings which can give the feeling of comfort and no conflict.

How much height should be set for the moldings? In order to obtain a better visual effect, the setting of the moldings must be based on the proportion and functionality, and the general height of the skirting line is 8-12 cm. If it is lower than 8CM, the proportion is asymmetrical, which cannot create its meaning and visual effect. If it is higher than 12CM, it appears too striking and has the feeling of usurping the host’s role.

In addition to preventing the wall from being soiled, setting the moldings in the house can also make the connection between the wall and the ground stronger, and prevent the wall from being deformed and damaged due to external force collision。At the same time, the moldings should use tiles and stones, etc. It is very easy to scrub, for example, when the owner often mopping the floor, it is easy to splash dirty water on the bottom of the wall, which makes it easier to clean.

The choice of the color of the molding is also according to different places and scene, in general, it can be the same or deeper compared with the ground , so that it will have a contrast that can show the effect, but also should match to the wall and functional areas,  for example, The moldings of the kitchen and the bedroom are generally not the same, the bedroom is private space, and the kitchen is mainly for cooking which is easy to be dirty, so in many cases, their colors is different, of course it is not same for big space and small space, the molding of small space should be lower than iits of big space, such as for small space it is 8 to 10 cm,for more large space it is 10 to 12 cm.

So, in household adornment, we must notice the adornment of the molding, It is the place that function and adornment coexist, it is an important place that has visual balance effect, it uses the line shape feeling of itself and the mutual echo of materials and colour to wait to echo each other in indoor, playing a better effect of beautification and decoration.

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The floor display rack is also called the display shelf.

According to the characteristics of the floor display rack, we can design the rack with creative LOGO signs that can match the products so that they can display the products in front of the public observably, so as to increase the role of product advertising. Display shelf can display the characteristics of the product in an all-round way with a wealth of accessories, and each component can be recorded live installation, a variety of color matching.

Scope of application.

Display shelf is widely used in construction materials, furnitures plastic products, cosmetics shops, factory products showroom samples,products of  foreign trade companies, such as product display hall, also can be used in business fairs, and can design style, make the product more higher according to the display requirements.

Display shelf, as a marketing carrier, developing with terminal POP advertising. It has the advantages of green environmental protection, convenient transportation, rapid assembly , placed in the sales place, can play a display of goods, convey information, promote the role of sales.

The use of display rack early prevalent in Europe and the United States, conspicuous exquisite design and display products on the shelf has been very common all over the world, widely used in food and beverage, daily chemicals, home appliances, home appliances, building materials, wine and other industries. Many sellers believe that through the display rack (display shelf) can improve the technical level of the enterprise and the sales capacity of the enterprise.In Europe and the United States, display rack (display shelf) is a very high added value of the products, the use of users and manufacturers are also very wide.

Nowadays, some brand companies have utilized display equipment as an integral part in various promotion activities and always achieve satisfying effect for both new product introduction and holiday promotion. Display equipment is of great help to creat holiday atmosphere and promote sales figure.

Classification of display equipment:

1: According to design

(1): Landing Display

(2): Counter Top Display

(3): Hanging Display

(4): Theme Diaply

2: According to material:

(1): Paperboard Display

(2): Metal Display

(3): Organic Glass Display

(4): Synthetic Material Display

3: According to Utility:

(1): Outfit Display

(2): Food&Beverage Display

(3): Lubricating Oil Display

(4): Paint Display

(5): Shelf Display for shopping mall

(6): File Display

(7): Cigarette&Wine Display

Display Equipment Maintenance:

1: The cleaning cloth should be free from extra dust and stain to avoid further pollution of the equipment surface.

2: For caring agent, there are mainly spray wax and cleaning detergent . The former one is intended for vinyl, engineered board display, often with different fragrance. The latter is more suitable for wooden, glass, and laminate board.

The metal display towers has its durability.In general, daily wear and tear won’t cause too much damage, but that doesn’t mean the metal display rack doesn’t need maintenance. The special nature of its material and technology determines that users should pay attention to some special  suggestions about its maintenance and protection.

1. Maintenance suggestions for outdoor metal display racks

 

the material selection of metal display rack should be rust and of the features of wear resistance, anti – corrosion, anti – exposure.Generally speaking, in the process of production ,manufacturers have taken into account the characteristics of the outdoor environment, so users only need to identify well-known manufacturers in the time of purchase, do not buy a few unqualified quality on the line. But here are some things you must do:

 

1.1 The dust removal.

 

there will be a layer of dust on the surface of the rack over a long time.It will affect the effect of the rack, and lead to the loss of the protective film on the rack. So metal display rack should be wiped regularly, generally with soft cotton fabric wipe as well.

 

1.2  Moisture.

 

According to the weather of local place, the rust resistance of the metal display rack can stand the test. In foggy weather, dry cotton cloth is used to wipe the drops off the metal shelves. Every rainy day, the beads should be dried in time after the rain stopped. You must pay attention to the selection of steel model too when buying them.

 

2. Maintenance suggestions for indoor metal display racks

 

2.1 Avoidance of bumps.

 

This is the first point to pay attention to after the purchase of metal display rack, the rack in the process of handling should be managed with care; The place that places rack should be the place that hard thing does not often touched; Once places are chosen, they should not change frequently;The ground on which the display rack is placed should also be kept flat to make the display rack four legs stable. If the display rack is shaken unsteadily, they will be slightly deformed with time, which will reduce the service life of the display rack.

 

2.2 Cleaning of the dust.

 

You’d better choose pure cotton knitwear to wipe the surface of rack.Pay attention to the depressions on the shelves and the dust in the emboss.

 

2.3 Stay away from acids and bases.

 

Acid and base, which corrode metal, are the “number one killer” of the metal shelf.If the metal rack is accidentally stained with acid (such as sulfuric acid, vinegar), alkali (such as a alkali, soap water, soda water), should be immediately washed clean with water, and then dry with cotton cloth.

 

2.4 Stay out of the sun.

 

The position that display rack puts, had better avoid the direct illuminate of sunshine outside the window. The color will change and the paint will fall off  Iron development frame long time to withstand the sun, will make paint color change;The paint layer is dry and cracked, and the metal is oxidized and deteriorated.If encounter intense sunshine and cannot move open frame, can use curtain or shutter to keep out.

 

2.5 Insulate from moisture.

 

Indoor humidity should be maintained within the normal value.The display frame should be far away from the humidifier, the moisture will cause metal corrosion, chromium plating, such as film.When the rack is clean, avoid using boiled water to clean the exhibition frame, can use wet cloth to wipe, but do not use running water to rinse.

 

2.6 Remove rust.

 

If the frame rusts, don’t sandpaper it. when the rust trace is small and shallow, you can dip in oil by cotton yarn besmear at rust place and wait a moment, wipe with cloth can eliminate rust trace. If the rust has grown larger and heavier, the technician should be called in to repair it.

Skirtings are primarily used to protect walls from damage.

In residential or commercial use, walls are often cracked or broken by shocks and scuffs around their base , that’s why installers use skirtings to act as a barrier.

It is particularly useful in commercial buildings such as workplaces or healthcare buildings where high traffic is constant.

The second function is to hide the buffer between the wall and the floor.

Indeed, skirtings are necessary both practically and aesthetically.

There is always a junction between the floor and the wall, and skirting boards are made to hide and protect that buffer.

Skirting will give a neat final touch to the room.

Our stair noses come in different shapes and sizes to suit the needs of different types of stairs. They are available in PVC round or slightly round shapes with a bending radius of 8R.

They are easy to install thanks to their flexible structure and are compatible with heterogeneous and homogeneous vinyls in rolls.

 

Our stair nose are also available with a sharp angle with a 2R bending radius for stairs over 16 cm high.

They are also available in exceed wear layer for high traffic areas.

They are to be fitted over the existing floor and very decorative and offer an elegant visual finish.

T-Moldings are commonly used in doorways to join two  floors in adjoining rooms. Also recommended when making a transition from  floor to another floor that is approximately the same height.

Step 1

Install the flooring planks including the underlayment by

leaving a 1″-1.2” inch (25-30mm) gap for the installation

of the T-molding.

Step 2

Center the U-Track and Shim between the two vinyl floors and screw them to the sub floor by using screws.

Step 3

Gently press the molding into the track starting from one end to the other just like you would close a Zip-Lock bag.1”!!! Do not try to push the entire molding in all at once

by just pressing it in from top !!!

Reducers are used to transition from flooring to floors of different height with

a minimum height difference of 1/4 inch.

Installation Instructions

Step 1

Install the flooring planks including the underlayment

by leaving a 1”-1.2″ inch (25-30mm)from the vinyl

and step edge for the installation of the stair nose

Step 2

Center the U-Track and Shim between the space floors and and step edge. screw them to the sub floor by using screws.

Step 3

Gently press the molding into the track starting from one end to the other just like you would close a Zip-Lock bag.1”!!! Do not try to push the entire molding in all at once .by just pressing it in from top !!!

 

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